White Death (Version 7) New England Style DIPA


White Death was brewed on 10/10/16.  Well well well, here we go again!  I knew I wanted to brew another batch of this beer before long, and there wasn’t much I wanted to change about it.  Since the last time I brewed this beer, Chicago has had a few breweries come out with some truly great examples of the New England IPA style.  Breweries like Mikerphone and their Special Sauce beers, Hop Butcher’s Galaxy Bowl, and The RAM’s Juicy have all been stellar beers that I just couldn’t get enough of.  The more I had these beers, the more things I realized that I needed to tweak to get White Death to be 100% where I want it.


A couple tools of the trade

One thing I wanted to improve was just the overall saturation of hop flavors and aromas.  Sadly for my wallet, this just meant more hops.  There’s basically a pound of hops in this recipe, and the vast majority of those are in the hop stand and dry hop.  I’m not sure if this is overkill or not, I’ll have to see once this is done and see if there’s anywhere I can scale the hops back a bit without losing any flavor or aroma.


Me, giving the mash a good stir

Looking back, I love how I said I wouldn’t change much if anything with that recipe last time, and just look above.  What can I say, I love tinkering with my recipes, but I really think this will get me where I want to be!

As for the brew day itself, it went about as perfect as it gets.  I was with my friends Jason and Dave, so I had plenty of help when I needed it.  I hit my mash temp right on the dot.  I mashed for an hour and then sparged.  Once the boil got going, I had some time to relax and have a couple beers with the guys.


Jason stirring the mash


A nice fall day for brewing some DIPA

Below you’ll see my hop additions, and that’s without the dry hop!  I added Citra and Mosaic at 10 minutes left, and got my chiller going at flameout.  I brought the beer down to 180 degrees and added a hopstand charge.  I let those hops steep for 45 minutes, chilled down to pitching temperature, and took my OG reading.  Right on the money at 1.075!  I swear, this brew day went too good to be true, I’m waiting on some disaster with the yeast or I’ll drop the carboy at kegging or something.


The boil and hopstand hops…there’s anoth 8oz for the dry hop!


My brew assistants Jason and Dave

I’ve said it before that this is my favorite beer that I brew, and this is the most excited I think I’ve ever been about a batch that I brewed.  I really think this recipe nailed the style, and I executed everything on brew day.  Hopefully the repitched slurry of Wyeast London Ale III yeast do their job, and I minimize any oxygen pickup during dry hopping and kegging.


Pale Malt (2 Row)
Oats, Flaked
White Wheat Malt
Honey Malt
Corn Sugar


Keg Update 10/18/16:  The beer was kegged on the second round of dry hops.  The FG came in at 1.014, right on target to get my 8% ABV!  The sample I took was absolutely fantastic tasting, tons of juicy hop flavor.  I can’t wait to see what another four ounces of dry hops does!

Tasting Notes 11/3/16:

Appearance:  White Death pours a deep golden orange color with a beautiful haze.  If you you dig New England IPAs, you’ll love this.  The beer beer looks like its glows under a light source, its really a beautiful beer.  The appearance really enhances the juicy feel of the beer.  The head is fluffy and white and maintained by lively tiny bubbles.  The head eventually dissipates and fades to the side of the glass where it clings as nice, sticky lacing.

Smell:  So, so juicy smelling.  Its like opening a blended bag of hops and putting your nose in.  It smells like a smoothie made of orange and a bit of generic citrus, pineapple, peach, berry, passion fruit and mango.  It’s just very juicy!  I feel like I’m overusing that term, but it’s really the best descriptor.  I love how the Galaxy hops really amped up that peach and tropical fruit aspect.  The yeast esters further compliment the fruitiness of the hops.  If you want floral notes or piney resin, look elsewhere.  This beer is like a glass of carbonated fruit juice blend with some alcohol.

Taste:  The bitterness is very mild and so smooth, but its enough to keep the beer from being too sweet.  The taste follow the nose with predominant flavors of orange, pineapple, mango, and peach.  There’s lighter hints of passion fruit, lemon zest, and a bit of berry.  Malt definitely takes a back seat here, but I love the way the sweetness and slight fruitiness of the honey malt compliments the hops.  The 1318 yeast provides a wonderful profile that really enhances everything else going on with this beer.

Mouthfeel:  Silky smooth from the wheat and oats.  The body is on the fuller side of medium, with lighter medium carbonation that enhances the creamy body.  Even the body of this beer is juice like, and it really enhances the aromas and flavors.  I feel like I’ve gotten close with previous beers in terms of mouthfeel, this is the first time I’m really nailed it on the head.

Overall:  Yes!  Yes yes yes!  This is truly the beer I’ve been trying to make!  The almost pound of hops I put in this beer truly turned out to be worth it.  This beer is so saturated with hop flavor and aroma, I’ve never brewed anything quite to this level.  The addition of Galaxy rather than Amarillo really played well with the Citra and Mosaic.  It was an improvement for sure with what I was going for.  I think the higher percentage of oats and wheat really made the body perfect on this one.  The dry hop is right on the money.  I’d love to shave a couple ounces of hops off somewhere if I could to keep the cost down, but I don’t want to lose anything from this spectacular beer.  I might up the Apollo at 60 to .5 oz, then do an ounce of Apollo at 10 and save all my flavor and aroma hops for flameout and dry hops.  I also might be around the end of this pitch of 1318, though that doesn’t factor into the actual recipe design.  I’ve never had this beer even get close to clearing at all until the very end of the keg on my last batches.  I just harvest slurry from my fermentor without washing it, and I’m thinking I’m getting more and more flocculant pitches.  Every three or four days I need to agitate the keg a bit to get more of those hop oils and yeast back into suspension.  That seems to be the key with beers like this.  It loses some flavor when it clears since there isn’t much going on behind all those wonderful hop oils.  This beer is the best beer I’ve made…..period.

18 thoughts on “White Death (Version 7) New England Style DIPA

  1. Pingback: White Death New England DIPA Tasting Notes! | White Pointer Brewery

  2. Very nice recipe. I am going to give it a try. How does this compare to the Mikerphone beers you have had? The Special Sauce series is amazing! I am on my 4th or 5th attempt at creating one of these juicy IPAs but haven’t tried 1318 yet due to fear if it not being dry enough I’ll take 1.014 if I can get that though…


    • This one is right in line with the Special Sauce beers. Their yeast is different, a blend of Conan and Trios yeast I think, but 1318 is wonderful in these beers. I’ve brewed a bunch of these NE IPAs at this point, and this was my best. I’ve never had a problem getting 1318 to about 1.014 from 1.075 with the use of a bit of sugar. with something a little smaller in gravity it shouldn’t have trouble if you mash around 150 or 152.


      • That is good information about the Special Sauce yeast. I degassed batch 9 and it finished at 1.011 and for how juicy and thick that beer is I was a bit surprised. My last attempt with Conan stopped at 1.016 from OG of 1.076 but that was with no sugar added, mashing at 152, and first generation, which from what I understand sometimes has issues. I’ll give 1318 a go with my next run while mashing at 149-150ish and see if I can get it down to at least 1.014. I have had no issues getting 1318 down to 1.011 – 1.012 pitching into a smaller beer OG 1.06ish. How are you managing your transfer dry hop and transfer right now? Dry hop in primary or keg? Transfer with CO2 or syphon?



      • I think Mikerphone posted a picture mashing in one of the Special Sauce beers and the temp was 149, so they may mash a bit lower than I would have thought to get to 1.011. I’ve heard Conan performs better after a generation or two, plus its mixed with a Trios yeast. The exact yeast blend they use is from Imperial Organic yeast, it’s a blend of the their Barbarian and Citrus yeasts. My dry hop is split in two parts. Half goes in hop bags weighed down by marbles right into the primary after 3 days. I transfer the beer into the keg using Co2. In the purged receiving keg I have the second round of dry hops in a bag suspended away from the dip tube using unwaxed dental floss tied to the keg handle. The floss is thin enough the lid can still seal. I transfer the beer into the receiving keg through the beverage out post. Keep the pressure release valve open throughout the process. After about five days, I’ll open the lid and remove the hops then reseal and purge again, though I’m sure you could just leave them in.


    • Hey Dave, thanks for reading! I added the first dry hop charge directly in the fermenter at day 3 into fermentation. I let those sit in there for 4 or 5 days and then rack to my keg. I added the second round of dry hops in the keg, let that sit for another 4 or 5 days, removed them and then carbed it up.


  3. Just wanted to report I brewed this beer with different hops. Citra, Centennial, and Amarillo turned out great! I used 1st generation 1318 with a shaken 1L shaken starter and finished at 1.012. First time trying the shaken not stirred method with a beer over 1.065. I mashed at 148 for 75 min and 155 for 15 min. How long are your beers with 1318 taking to ferment? It took me the full 2 weeks to get down to 1.012 from 1.074. That seems like a long time based on what I have read with this yeast but I don’t have much experience with it.


    • Sounds like a tasty hop combo! I’ve found that active fermentation seems to die down somewhere between day 3 and 5 depending on the OG, with it dropping another couple points over the next few days after that. I typically keg my beers of this style at day 8 or so to put them on the second round of dry hops and they’re almost always done by then.


  4. Great looking recipe. I had a very similar layout for a lower ABV tropical NEIPA with rolled/flaked oats but juiced up more to match this gravity and took your advice on the honey malt. Equinox, Mosaic, Citra, smells great and looks golden. I’ll report back if it’s as good as I expect.


    • Thanks for reading! I still haven’t used Equinox in one of my beers, but I’ve had it in a number of commercial brews. It’ll go great with Citra and Mosaic. I’ve got a recipe I plan on doing sometime in the near future where I finally use it, I’m thinking maybe with some Galaxy. Let me know how your beer turns out!


  5. Hi! Really your blog and had a couple of quick questions for you. I’ll try to go in order of the brewing process :). When you transfer post-boil to the fermentor, what is your process? Are you doing anything specific to filter hop particulate out from the hopstand and whirlpool from getting into your fermentor?

    Are you cold crashing? If so, in any specific fashion (the primary, the keg, etc.)? When you transfer from Primary to the keg are you just using a standard racking arm with CO2 approach?

    Thanks in advance!


    • Hi Jeremy, glad you like the blog and thanks for reading! I usually have friends over while I brew, so I have some extra muscle to help me lift my kettle and dump it into the fermenter. I dump the wort through a strainer to filter out all the whirlpool hop sludge and some of the kettle trub.

      With my IPAs where clarity is not a concern I don’t cold crash. I bag my dry hops with marbles to weigh the bags down, so I don’t have a bunch of hop matter floating around to worry about so I just haven’t found cold crashing necessary with most of my beers. When I do cold crash, say for an ale I want clear or if I didn’t bag my hops and wanted to try to drop some of the hops out, I’d transfer to a keg, crash in one keg with a shortened dip tube, then Co2 transfer to a serving keg. If its a beer where I want it clear, I usually give it a bit of extra time in the fermenter and rack carefully. If I don’t suck up much trub I’ll just crash in the keg, add some geletin and then serve from that keg knowing the first pint or two will be dumped.

      As for primary to keg, you nailed it. I just run a racking arm through a carboy cap and hook my Co2 line up to cap with a special fitting to push it into a purged keg. Minimizing the oxygen exposure this way has really helped my hoppy beers.


  6. Pingback: My 2016 Homebrewing Year in Review | White Pointer Brewery

  7. Thanks for taking the time to share your recipes, feedback, and ideas. Very interesting reading and inspired me with some ideas. I never thought about adding oats to an IPA, so you gave me some good ideas for my next batch. I don’t have a CO2 setup, but wondering if you can get the same impact using a conical fermenter ? What do you think ? My thinking process is by eliminating the need to transfer to a secondary, I can keep the beer all the time on CO2 from the fermentation and just go directly to bottling.

    You are dry hopping your mosiac in pellets or cones ? I’ve been using cones and for my next batch I’m thinking about splitting 50/50 cones and pellets to see if it increases oil content … ( brewed a wheat ipa this morning … and single dry hopping it with mosiac. Bitter hopped it with mosiac, for aroma used centennial and cascade …)

    Thanks again for all the investment you are making in your blog and enjoy !


    • Hey Peter, thanks for reading! Having a conical fermenter may help reduce some O2 pickup depending what your transfer method is, but the ability to purge your receiving vessel whether it is a keg or bottles is important in my opinion. I noticed a vast improvement in my IPAs when I switched to kegging and having a Co2 setup. Its a bit expensive, but the improvement to the end product is worth the cost in my opinion. Thats good that you aren’t using a secondary for hoppy styles, its completely unnecessary unless you are bulk aging something and its just another chance to pick up O2 or an infection.

      I use pellet hops for everything. I’ve only tried whole cones once and I realized after that I didn’t have enough of them since they were freshly picked and not dried.

      Thanks again for reading!


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